Off Again

This year’s plan is to spend 2months in Sri Lanka. The airplane tickets have been purchased and the visas obtained. Departure is a week from next Tuesday but the forecast is for snow and our first stop is Boston. Must keep our fingers crossed.

Something about the Plans of Mice and Men

There is a last minute delay (I hope) in our plans. Our doctor said that Joy should not fly out until her lungs were cleared up. What started about 2 weeks ago as a vicious little cold that she caught from me has migrated to her lungs and, as an asthmatic, Joy has difficulty with these. So on to steroids and hope that we can re-schedule. 

Planning the next trip

The next trip herself has planned is a visit to Italy and a few other spots in Europe. After last year's episode with a parasite when she returned from Africa, she is hesitant to go to anywhere too exciting so Europe it is. We fly into Rome and home from Paris and have two months in between. Plans are to spend a lot of the time relaxing in Southern Italy and then go North as the weather warms. Maybe I can pick up some Italian along the way.

The Flight

I thought that I would add a few comments about our journey to Accra. We flew in two legs, each about 6 hours long. Halifax to Heathrow was with Air Canada on the 767 and we sneaked out before a snow event. Our bags were checked through to Accra and we had a 4 hour layover in Heathrow. Enough time to find our way through the maze of terminals to change from 2 to 3.
The flight from Heathrow to Accra, across the Sahara, was with British Airways. The smooth flight was in a Boeing 747 and was my first in that plane. Remembering being shown through the trainer for this type back in the mid-sixties, I had to ask the crew how old this one was. Being assured that it was only 25 years old, I got on.
For some reason BA charges you to preselected seats and this is my only complaint. I broke down and paid the extra because I couldn't abide not sitting with Joy to hold my hand. If you Google BA, you will see that there are many complaints about this practice, and you would think that the airline would increase prices a little and allow for free seat selection?

Getting Used to Internet

My apologies for not blogging since we landed on Thursday. Found out that only one of us could be on without re-booting. UnFortunately Joy has used up all the good information, so this will be a short entry. She is so much better with imagination and words than I.
First, although it was a possible side trip, we will not be going to Burkino Faso, if anyone was worried.
Ghana's number one tourist attraction has to be the people. They must be the friendliest in the world. If I wanted more tourism here I would just advertise a broad Ghanaian smile. Joy has told everyone about our first few days here and being invited to join a large group for beer at a wake in Jamestown, the old part of Accra. Daniel was apparently a good man and I hope that he knows that two strangers enjoyed a wonderful time at his wake. There was another going on yesterday just up the street, but we weren't invited to that one. Daniel died at 57 and the woman up the street was only 53. No wonder that the casket shop (open air)I passed while Joy was painting yesterday, was so certain that I would be interested in their product. I politely declined, citing transportation costs.
Today we go to meet some representatives of the Mmofri (sp) Foundation to see if Joy can do some type of project with them. At this point, we hope to find our way to Ada Foah at the mouth of the Volta River tomorrow.

New Trip

On Tuesday, January 12, we are off again. This time we leave Halifax for Heathrow and then onward to Accra in Ghana. Wish us well.

A Day with Joy, Trains

March 24, 2014:

Yesterday was our last with a driver as we had to catch a train for Mumbai at 5:45pm. Joy (the artist is always right) decided we should go to a craft village a short way out of Udaipur. Unfortunately it wasn't open for an hour or so, so she decided we would just drive until we found a village. It wasn't long before we were walking the streets/lanes of a village called Badi, where few tourists go. She eventually sits down to sketch and I leave her to walk around and talk to people. I always come back just to make that things are ok and it is easy to find her, as these pictures show.

Find a crowd and there's Joy!

She is very popular with the kids and does many sketches of them, giving them to them after.

But she is popular with all ages as this man's happy smile at a photo of him, shows!

We are on the train as I write this and I have discovered something new about Indian train travel. This trip was organized for us by a tour place in Delhi (never again) and it is 1st class, but not air conditioned. The lack of AC doesn't bother us that much as we are getting used to 30+ temperatures. But we were assigned a compartment designed for four people and there was no one assigned the other two seats.

We settled in with our many bags, but left the door open to see what was going on across the hall. Shortly,  a young guy came in and put down the upper bunk ( I had just put it up) and followed by his woman an a baby settled in. Soon another young guy joined him on the upper bunk and they talked loudly together. Then another man, who had a physical disability also joined us, so that we had 6 people and a baby in a compartment for 4. Also none of these had paid for first class, some claiming to be staff. The conductor came and checked my passport to ensure that I was in the right place, but the other four were ignored. Fortunately, they all left at fairly early stops and the door has been locked ever since. It appears that anyone can get on the train and grab a seat in first class without paying, or without paying the normal people?

Jim

Rocks, Roads and Laneways

March 22, 2014:

This is my older brother's birthday! Anyone who survived having a younger brother like me deserves an "attaboy"!

Yesterday we drove from Ranakpur through beautiful hills and twisty roads to Udaipur, the most romantic city in India according to some sources. We passed a number of monkey tribes sitting peacefully by the road watching the humans speed by. We also ran into (once almost literally) a quaint habit by some inhabitants of this area, to put a line of rocks across the road so they can extract a toll by threat. We were able to evade the first two by following a truck in one instance. Unfortunately, the last one was just over the brow of a hill and a youngster was just putting the second last rock in place. Only good reflexes on the part of Khan, our driver, saved us and the young fellow from serious injury. As usual in India the police seem useless, as this practice is carried on in plan view and with everyone's knowledge.

Yesterday, we toured the local fort (palace) and saw the usual expressions of excess, extravagance and ego on the part of the rulers of India before and after the British.

You can tell that I am pretty well finished with the string of palaces and temples covering this part of India. The quality of workmanship in these edifices is a wonder, but it can be overdone.

Today, we ditched our driver and did things Joy's way. Actually, we both enjoy heading off on foot to where the tourists don't go to see and meet the local people going about their lives. In Udaipur this involves wandering some narrow but interesting lanes.

As you can see, not all are passable.

 We met some real people, all friendly and some eager to talk. I was a little worried by the government worker with their agriculture department who asked what I ate when he found out how old I was. He was quite disappointed to find out that Joy was the vegetarian, not me. I don't know if he asked because my ruggedly handsome good looks or if he thought that I was on my way out?

This evening we went to a one hour dancing and puppet show at the government museum which was truly wonderful and a "must see" if you are ever in Udaipur. Tomorrow we are off to explore the countryside to find villages for Joy and in the afternoon we get on the train for Mumbai.

Jim

Rocks, Roads and Laneways

March 22, 2014:

This is my older brother's birthday! Anyone who survived having a younger brother like me deserves an "attaboy"!

Yesterday we drove from Ranakpur through beautiful hills and twisty roads to Udaipur, the most romantic city in India according to some sources. We passed a number of monkey tribes sitting peacefully by the road watching the humans speed by. We also ran into (once almost literally) a quaint habit by some inhabitants of this area, to put a line of rocks across the road so they can extract a toll by threat. We were able to evade the first two by following a truck in one instance. Unfortunately, the last one was just over the brow of a hill and a youngster was just putting the second last rock in place. Only good reflexes on the part of Khan, our driver, saved us and the young fellow from serious injury. As usual in India the police seem useless, as this practice is carried on in plan view and with everyone's knowledge.

Yesterday, we toured the local fort (palace) and saw the usual expressions of excess, extravagance and ego on the part of the rulers of India before and after the British.

You can tell that I am pretty well finished with the string of palaces and temples covering this part of India. The quality of workmanship in these edifices is a wonder, but it can be overdone.

Today, we ditched our driver and did things Joy's way. Actually, we both enjoy heading off on foot to where the tourists don't go to see and meet the local people going about their lives. In Udaipur this involves wandering some narrow but interesting lanes.

As you can see, not all are passable.

 We met some real people, all friendly and some eager to talk. I was a little worried by the government worker with their agriculture department who asked what I ate when he found out how old I was. He was quite disappointed to find out that Joy was the vegetarian, not me. I don't know if he asked because my ruggedly handsome good looks or if he thought that I was on my way out?

This evening we went to a one hour dancing and puppet show at the government museum which was truly wonderful and a "must see" if you are ever in Udaipur. Tomorrow we are off to explore the countryside to find villages for Joy and in the afternoon we get on the train for Mumbai.

Jim

Monkeys and Temples

March 20, 2014:

A small group of monkies ran through the gum trees out in front of our room here in Ranakpur and it is always difficult for me not to include a picture, especially when a baby is involved.

Mom seemed so patient with this little wretch, but eventually moved on.

We went to the Jain temple today as it is the main reason for one to come to Ranakpur. Once again the craftsmanship in the stone carving is amazing. India is certainly filled with these beautiful edifices to one god or another. Somewhat like the forts(palaces) they indicate spectacular wealth used to benefit a few. The Jain's stance against violence in action and word is very admirable, but I am not certain about celibacy.

Here is one of the ceilings:

We have had a relaxing time here as there is not much other than the temple. Most people go to the temple as a day trip from Udaiphur, but the hotel is nice and we needed some unwinding.

Jim

Of Forts, Elephants and Motorcycle Temples

March 19, 2014

Yesterday, after the coloured dust from "Holi" died down, we went up to see the latest in the string of monuments to excessive spending, the fort overlooking Jodhpur. Although much steeper/taller than many of the others, and overlooking a city where many roofs are painted blue, Mehrangarth is similar to many other "forts". Displays feature textiles, modes of transport, walls, ceilings, etc. all featuring the expenditure of tremendous amounts of $ to satisfy one family's ego.

Fortunately, each fort has something a little different. In this case it was the palm prints of the Maharajah's wives which were placed on the palace wall before they threw themselves on their husband's funeral pyre.

But enough of the rich. This morning I went out to find Joy before we left for Ranakpur. She had headed out for some sketching time and I always find her surrounded by a crowd. I didn't find her but I did find an elephant, who must come from Rajastan, because he loved getting 10 rupee notes and handing them with his trunk to his driver. I was too busy giving $ to get a picture.

On our way to Ranakpur, Khan, our driver, told us of this young boy who was the only child in a wealthy family. The boy asked his parents for a motorcycle and they immediately got him one. That day he was killed on the highway. The motorcycle was taken to the police station but the next morning was found back at the scene of the accident. It was then taken to the parents' home, but again, appeared the following morning back at the accident scene. The people, thinking that it was magically built a shrine and people go there to pray and make offerings to the motorcycle.

Much better, I must say, than our visit to the Rat Temple!

Jim

Spice Girls of India

March 19, 2014:

The high point in any trip is meeting real people, as we did when we met Gurdip and Tani Singh, about three weeks ago. This time we were fortunate to meet two of the "Spice Girls"! Joy had noticed in the LP guide that MV Spices was the place to get spices in Jodhpur, but then decided that she didn't want spices. So it was good fortune that we were cruising the market and came upon the shop.

We met this lovely young woman, "Neelam", who was extremely pleasant and Joy bought quite a few spices there. It turned out that Neelam was one of seven daughters of a man, who had become famous as the man who had developed a business selling spices up by the entrance to the fort. When he died suddenly and had no son to take over, his wife decided that she and the seven daughters would run the business. The overcame resistence from their own extended family and from others (men) at the market (including one failed acid attack) to become a great success story.

Neelam and Joy.

Neelam.

Now, in addition to articles written about them, there is a Australian documentary entitled "The Spice Girls of India" which has just been produced and is starting to make the rounds of film festivals around the World. Hopefully we can get it to Halifax because it is a great story of a family of strong women!

Jim

Of Dead Camels, Stone Cutting, the Military

March 17, 2014:

As we sit in our hotel trying to avoid the mobs of people outside playing loud; make that extra loud, music and throwing coloured dye on any inch of a person that hasn't been covered yet, I think back to yesterday's drive from Jaisalmer ( I think that I have misspelled Jaisalmer in previous blogs) to Jodhpur.

After all the dodging of cattle, sheep, camels and sheep on our drives through Rajastan, we finally saw dead camels in two places on the drive. There was no sign of the vehicles as they must have run off, but they also must have had considerable damage.

We also passed through an area where there were many stone cutting operations. Stone is used here in the desert for many things that for which we would use wood like fence posts and house building.

The process uses a gantry or lift to raise heavy pieces of rock quarried from the neighbouring mountains, and take them to a huge circular saw which squares them and them cuts of slabs for fence post. Some use these slabs for homes.

We also noticed the heavy military activity in Jaisalmer and on the road to Jodhpur. There were fighter jets over the fort and town of Jaisalmer many times every day, coming and going from the nearby airport. On the drive to Jodhpur, we had to weave our way through a continuous stream of army trucks carrying supplies. Even here in Jodhpur we hear the jets.

But we are here in Jodhpur and after our self-imposed exile in the hotel today, we will see the inside of the fort that towers above the town. 

Jim

The Golden City

March 16, 2014:

It seems that many cities in India are coloured. Agra is the pink city; Jodphur, where we are headed today is the blue city; and Jaiselmer is the yellow or golden city. In Agra we found the pink more orange, but Jaiselmer is made from a yellow sand stone and lives up to its colour. The stone looks the same colour as the surrounding desert from a distance and the fort looks brown. But up close and after wear the stone certainly takes on a golden hue.

This is the step of one of the Jain temples (there are 7) inside the fort. You can see how the sandstone is worn smooth and to a soft golden colour. A lot of the narrow streets in the fort are worn to this texture.

Jim

Maharajas, Postage Stamps, and Camels

March 15, 2014:

Yesterday we trekked up the hill to visit the "sand fort" of Jaiselmer. This fort is different from the ones we have visited so far as it is built on a sandstone hill the overlooks the town as the others that we have seen tend to be buried in the urban sprawl of centuries. It is also one of two forts in India in which people continue to live. There are 5,000 inhabitants living in the narrow alleys of the "sand fort".

I think that I have already explained that I collected Indian stamps back in the 1970s, even doing a display of early stamps issued by Indian states, and was keenly interested in see samples of these stamps in India. I had already been disappointed in visits to museums in post offices in Delhi and Jaipur as their displays started in 1947 and had nothing prior to that date. But, here there was to be a display of the very stamps in which I was interested! Unfortunately, it was closed! 

So, we saw the usual displays of spectacular examples of excessive spending by the old princes of India.

I did get a nice picture of my favourite artist!

In the afternoon we drove out in the desert about 50km South of Jaiselmer to a small village for a camel safari. Despite our trepidation, this ended up an enjoyable experience. The safari in our case was really a three hour walk up into the dunes, with an hour sitting and watching the sun set into the perpetual haze that clings to the Indian horizon. It will take a few days for these old legs to recover. The tricky part to camel riding (now that I am an expert?) is the dismount. The camel has to get from standing to lying down, and does this by folding its front legs first. This gives a sudden extreme forward tilt to the riding surface which requires the rider to lean further back than seems possible. Fortunately, the rear of the animal collapses quickly before you are pitched over the animal's head.

My favourite camel!

The social activities and dinner of Rajastani desert food made the entire experience fun. Now I can scratch camel ride off the old bucket list.

Jim

Of Ceilings and Fences

March 13, 2014

Yesterday we were in Bikaner and went, as everyone must to Junagarh, the "fort" of the Maharajas of Bikaneer. It was the standard fare in these places of textiles, outfits, armour, weapons, etc. the decoration is the best that an 18th and 19th despot can manage. Excessive in every detail. I thought that I would show some pictures of ceilings in this place, that are truly beautiful while being excessive at the same time.

And another:

And yet another, this one wooden:

One the other extreme, out in farming country, people make use of whatever is handy to create fencing. With all the cattle, goats and camels wandering the highways, one has to ask why they bother.

Some fences are just make from bushes with thorns, the same way they did in Nova Scotia with hawthorns. But the one I am particularly fond of is the barbed wire and stone post fence. Wood in desert country is scarce, so stone is quarried and cut into lengths for post. Then either they are placed next each other and cemented between to form a solid fence, or barbed wire is strung between much like our fences. Here is an example:

Lastly in honour of International Women's Day, which I think just passed, her is a woman's view in the palace:

Women were required to stay behind screens so that they could not be seen!

Jim

The Rat Temple

March 12, 2014

I know that everyone (Mr. Giles) is dying to here about our visit to the "rat temple", which is properly called "Karni Mata" temple in Deshnok, near Bikaner. The story goes that Karni Mata asked the god of death to bring back to life her son, who had drowned. When the request was rejected, she decided that all members of her family would come back as rats and return as members of her family. 

So now people actually come to this temple which is over-run by the rodents (some 22,000 according to one source; the guy at the booth where you leave your shoes). Yes you do have to leave your shoes and go into the temple in bare feet, in my case, socks for Joy. The aim is to find a white rat which gives some form of good fortune or have a rat run over your foot, which is also good. We did not see a white rat, and I only came close to having the second happen. We only saw a few hundred rats, but that was plenty to get Joy to leave quickly and for me to try to remember what diseases rats carried. As I traipsed over the tiles covered by years of rat droppings, I kept trying to remember whether it was "Black Death" or Bubonic plague that rats spread. I must confess that I did not stay long and I have decided that unless anyone is interested in rat pictures, I am not going to post them here.

Jim

On the Road to Bikaner

March 11, 2014

Today I thought that I would cover signs, beer, and police. But before that I have another Indian driving rule which should be about number 11. This deals with the proper procedure to be used in the event that you arrive at a level crossing when the barriers are down. This refers to a 2 lane highway, and the rule states that you must fill all three lanes on your side before the train passes and the barrier goes up. Otherwise you miss all the fun of three lanes of traffic facing each other and then trying to squeeze through an opening for two. Exciting stuff and we had this fun twice today!

Joy and I have developed a taste for beer (specifically Kingfisher an Indian beer) and usually like to get one with lunch to replenish fluid levels in the Indian heat. But either the liquor laws are unusual or the licence is too expensive, but we have received beer (called juice or tea in some places) in tea pots, newspaper, napkins and even cans wrapped in tinfoil. 

Anyone who has been to India knows that there is no opportunity lost to advertise in paint on any surface along the highways. Almost any subject can be caught on the sides of buildings. As you can see there is even a fight to ensure that your brand of cement is front and centre.

Some are not familiar names to Canadians,

but some are.

They are everywhere, some in English, and some not. It is sometimes hard to find directional signs.

There are plenty of police in India, although given the driving issues they have, it is sometimes difficult to see their role. One thing I do appreciate is the clear marking of police instructions, offices and vehicles using the international symbol of the square divided into blue and red triangles.

There is never any doubt that the sign involves police instructions or the location of their office.

Jim

Pushcar Day II

March 10, 2014:

Today Joy got her wish to go painting for the day and off she went with the car and Khan to find the perfect village. This left me with a day to wander about as I saw fit. First I had to visit an ATM to restock my supply of ruppees, always a bit of an adventure. The first machine worked on one of the cards to the tune of R10000, but would not complete the second transaction. This required a visit to a second machine which turned out to have a R5000 limit. Of course, you are never told this before. Banks are getting a fantastic return from these machines, I know ours are!

Chores done, I found a little cafe, ordered chai and settled in to watch the people:

It was a relaxing and enjoyable day of exploring for me, without the pressure of always being pulled by the driver to go here or there. The market was filled with Hindus heading for the Brahma temple or the water of the lake which is surrounded with "Ghats" (bathing areas) for that purpose. The only problem in the market (which surprisingly does not have a lot of people asking for money) is the high speed motorcycle/scooter racers weaving through pedestrians and cows. The road is narrow enough that only the very stupid try to take cars in, so it should be a pleasant experience, but ducking motorcycles makes it anything but.

Some advice for people who want to visit Rajastan. Don't take a tour!  If you want to use a tour company follow these rules:

1. Let them arrange hotels to your standard. Yes they make a commission, but on the whole we have been quite satisfied.

2. Let them arrange any train travel, once again, to your standard. They seem to have no difficulty negotiating India Rail and if you are only coming for a few weeks, it makes that part painless.

3. If you are going to use a car and driver, only engage them to take you from A to B and no tourist activities. Also no stops on the highway unless you ask for it. They all have places they want you to stop to get their commission. Do your own thing at each stop. It has taken us over a week for Joy to get a day to paint.

4. Make certain that all repeat ALL charges, tips and donations are specified beforehand! The people of Rajastan believe that tips and donations are entitlements and will happily define them  at an excessive level! Even priests will let you know how much your donation should be. We now have a policy that when we are told what a tip or donation should be, it will be much, much smaller.

Jim

Pushcar

March 9, 2014

On the road early (9am) and on the 4 lane highway to Ajmer on our way to one of the holiest places in India for Hindus; Pushcar. Paid particular attention to trucks on this trip. There are trucks on the road here that must be 4 feet higher than we allow in Canada. They look dangerously top-heavy, but the only overpasses they have to get under are the very tall ones at toll booths.

Interesting as well are the huge loads of animal feed. It appears quite light, but the loads, both on trucks and tractor trailers are extremely large and appear ready to fall off.

We liked the various messages on the backs of trucks asking you to "blow horn"(as if anyone in India needs encouragement), "use dipper at night", "stop"(rather than having working lights), "keep distance", "wait for lane", and our favourite "good luck"!

We eventually arrived in Pushcar where Brahma, the creator, made the World out of a lotus flower that grew out of his stomach. Here there is the only temple in his honour in the entire World. In addition, there are many, many other temples here honouring other of the Hindu deities. Hindus come to Pushcart, visit the temple and pray and bathe in the lake.

We were guided to the temple and then down to the lake where we took part in a ceremony with a young man who said that he was a priest. The ceremony was very nice until the "hit" was put on for a donation. That would have been fine, but he tried to specify what would be an acceptable amount from each of us. Being tired of the many people of Rajastan pulling this kind of scam, we explained how the approach was wrong and we would not be donating what they were asking for. Fortunately both the priest and our guide had a decent grasp of English, so they understood our concerns.

Jim