Hi Folks:
Carnivale has ended and peace has once again descended over the land of Bolivia. Samaipata was dead quiet when we left this morning except for the milkman`s "mooing" car. When I frist heard it, I was certain that there was some ritualistic animal torture going on and had to investigate. It has the sickest sounding "moo" that you ever heard. But that is all that it is, a farmer selling bulk milk out of the back of his station-wagon.
After Joy having 2 days of painting and me reading 2 books, we were off this morning in a taxi for Santa Cruz. It was the usual 8 person micro-bus with 10 people in it. Other than a 1 hour wait for the road to be cleared after an explosion, we arrived safely in the city. We didn`t pause, but were off to the train/bus station, where we found out that we could not catch today`s "ferrobus", which is a kind of bus on rails. So we settled on tomorrow`s "Oriental Express" and will stay over tonight in Santa Cruz. The "Oriental Express" is also known as the "train of death" so we thought that it might be fun. It runs from Santa Cruz, over-night, to the border of Brazil. As we depart South America from Sao Paulo, Brazil on the 5th, getting into Brazil seems like a good idea. We will still have to cut across most of Brazil by bus, but Joy says that she loves the bus (not!).
With a view to getting into Brazil, and not wanting to be stuck at the border at least 15 hours away from the nearest Brazilian visa issuing entity, we then visited the Brazilian Consulate here and confirmed that our visas were good for 90 days from our first entry. Seems like we are good to go.
Next entry should be from Brazil, if all goes right.
Jim
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Fun in Samaipata
Hola All:
Before I forget about Santa Cruz, I want a tell you why it didn`t make a good first impression. The taxi driver couldn`t find the hostal that we wanted, and wouldn`t take directions from me even though I knew where we needed to go once I had seen the main plaza. he kept asking for directions from everyone else and got a real mixture of directions, eventually winding up at the Hotel Bolivia rather than the Residentiale Bolivar. Then once he got the right directions he made the wrong turn ending up with us facing another lap of the block in virtual gridlock. At that point, we got out and the trek began. It wasn`t far to the hostal that we were looking for and Joy loved the ambiance, with the palms, bananas and Toucans in the courtyard. Unfortunately, while I travel pretty simply, I do ask for a private bathroom and those rooms were all taken for Carnivale. So then we started hiking to find the perfect combination of both with Joy hoping that we had to go back. Finally, exhausted, we found the compromise place with a view of the roof-tops and a private bathroom. Then, after an hour and a half hike to find one of Joy`s selection of perfect places to eat (all either closed or abandoned) we had dinner. On the way back we were stopped by 2 of Santa Cruz`s finest fake police officers, who barely had the opportunity to get their fake ID out of their pockets before I told them (in my finest English) to "get lost" or words to that effect, and proceeded to call "Policia, policia!" at the top of my lungs. It was some sort of gut reaction based on the fact that there had been a similar stunt pulled on us in La Paz last year. You never saw a white SUV go down the road and around the corner faster than those guys. My reaction last year had been to grab Joy and run, but this new one just came out of nowhere, but it worked. It was funny that they didn`t hang around, because one of the things that we had noticed about Santa Cruz was the absolute absence of police (real ones). This was especially true after seeing the police presence in La Paz! Unfortunately, after this episode, I had some trouble sleeping. It is an old tired scam, which should have been stamped out by now.
The next day we were off early to find the taxis/buses to Samaipata. Eventually, having located the taxi driver from H---, we were off for 150kms of terror. I vaguely remember the guy shaking the car vigorously to get more gas in and seeing (most of the time my eyes were closed) a car with 6 mattresses stacked on top! The driver spent most of the 150kms on the left side of the road passing every vehicle in sight and then stopping, with some excuse, while they passed us again, so that he could start the routine again. We sis arrive safely in Samaipata to get the last room in a town packed with partiers. For the past three days (seem to be still going today) we had the cacophony of bands competing for attention with a dance party along with them, usually well lubricated with something alcohol. Of course, there are the squirt guns, water balloons and shaving cream. Everyone gets into the act! It is a great party time for those who like that sort of thing. Girls make a circuit of the main plaza, seemingly to prove that they are the most popular because they got the wettest. I don`t understand that, so it must be a female thing.
Yesterday, Joy and I went up to "El Fuerte" the nearby pre-Hispanic ruins. Very different than others as the very large rock surface at the highest point has been carved into various symbols and was used as a religious site. The work involved to do the carving without metal tools, is quite amazing to contemplate. We walked the 10-12kms back to town in the mid-day sun (isn`t there a song that says "only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun!"). The first stop for a cold cervasa was appreciated! I did say that it was hot, right?
Today is a painting day for Joy, so I will wander and chill. We have to start planning our return to Brazil.
Jim
Before I forget about Santa Cruz, I want a tell you why it didn`t make a good first impression. The taxi driver couldn`t find the hostal that we wanted, and wouldn`t take directions from me even though I knew where we needed to go once I had seen the main plaza. he kept asking for directions from everyone else and got a real mixture of directions, eventually winding up at the Hotel Bolivia rather than the Residentiale Bolivar. Then once he got the right directions he made the wrong turn ending up with us facing another lap of the block in virtual gridlock. At that point, we got out and the trek began. It wasn`t far to the hostal that we were looking for and Joy loved the ambiance, with the palms, bananas and Toucans in the courtyard. Unfortunately, while I travel pretty simply, I do ask for a private bathroom and those rooms were all taken for Carnivale. So then we started hiking to find the perfect combination of both with Joy hoping that we had to go back. Finally, exhausted, we found the compromise place with a view of the roof-tops and a private bathroom. Then, after an hour and a half hike to find one of Joy`s selection of perfect places to eat (all either closed or abandoned) we had dinner. On the way back we were stopped by 2 of Santa Cruz`s finest fake police officers, who barely had the opportunity to get their fake ID out of their pockets before I told them (in my finest English) to "get lost" or words to that effect, and proceeded to call "Policia, policia!" at the top of my lungs. It was some sort of gut reaction based on the fact that there had been a similar stunt pulled on us in La Paz last year. You never saw a white SUV go down the road and around the corner faster than those guys. My reaction last year had been to grab Joy and run, but this new one just came out of nowhere, but it worked. It was funny that they didn`t hang around, because one of the things that we had noticed about Santa Cruz was the absolute absence of police (real ones). This was especially true after seeing the police presence in La Paz! Unfortunately, after this episode, I had some trouble sleeping. It is an old tired scam, which should have been stamped out by now.
The next day we were off early to find the taxis/buses to Samaipata. Eventually, having located the taxi driver from H---, we were off for 150kms of terror. I vaguely remember the guy shaking the car vigorously to get more gas in and seeing (most of the time my eyes were closed) a car with 6 mattresses stacked on top! The driver spent most of the 150kms on the left side of the road passing every vehicle in sight and then stopping, with some excuse, while they passed us again, so that he could start the routine again. We sis arrive safely in Samaipata to get the last room in a town packed with partiers. For the past three days (seem to be still going today) we had the cacophony of bands competing for attention with a dance party along with them, usually well lubricated with something alcohol. Of course, there are the squirt guns, water balloons and shaving cream. Everyone gets into the act! It is a great party time for those who like that sort of thing. Girls make a circuit of the main plaza, seemingly to prove that they are the most popular because they got the wettest. I don`t understand that, so it must be a female thing.
Yesterday, Joy and I went up to "El Fuerte" the nearby pre-Hispanic ruins. Very different than others as the very large rock surface at the highest point has been carved into various symbols and was used as a religious site. The work involved to do the carving without metal tools, is quite amazing to contemplate. We walked the 10-12kms back to town in the mid-day sun (isn`t there a song that says "only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun!"). The first stop for a cold cervasa was appreciated! I did say that it was hot, right?
Today is a painting day for Joy, so I will wander and chill. We have to start planning our return to Brazil.
Jim
Saturday, February 21, 2009
A Long Way Away!
Hello All:
Yesterday started as planned with us getting the mini-bus in the village plaza of beautiful Sorata, after a solid night of rain. A night of rain causes one to worry about the road being passable, but off we went in a 15 passenger Toyota (16 on board). There is about an hour and a half climb to get out of Sorata and the road is mostly dirt/gravel with an occasional stretch of pavement. Maybe it is the other way around, but early on, the driver had to get out and move rocks off the road that had been put there by a mud-slide, earthquake, or, as turned out to be the case and errant bulldozer operator working up-hill from the road. Once past that we climbed and climbed into the clouds, with me on the down-hill side (if you don`t know by now, I don`t like heights, and these are HEIGHTS!). But I kept the van on the road and we made it to La Paz and booked for the 5pm bus to Santa Cruz. Once we got settled in the bus and Joy managed to last through the obligatory Steven Segal "shoot-em-up" movie, we had a peaceful night.
When we awoke, the world had changed! No, Obama wasn`t on our bus! But, we had gone from the Altoplano, where the predominant colour, with many exceptions that Joy will point out to me later, is "adobe brown" with touches of pale green. It is also dry and relatively cool this time of year (the rainy and summer seasons), but we love it. Suddenly the next morning it was warm/hot and humid and the countryside was Green, green! From the book I have been reading, it seems clear that this area has been the economic engine for Bolivia for the past 20 years after the mines became less important. Here there is oil, gas, soya, sugar-cane (for bio-gas) , iron ore and there was coca until the U.S. eradication program may have limited it`s economic impact. Santa Cruz has become one of Bolivia`s largest cities over the past 20 years and shows it with fewer colonial buildings and many modern ones among the usual unfinished building put up in a hurry by newcomers. After we got in we spent the rest of the day relaxing and hope to find transport to Samaipata, about 150km east of here, to avoid the worst/best of Carnivale.
Tomorrow may be another of those cozy mini-bus rides, without which any visit to South America is incomplete. I might add the over-night bus rides to that list too.
Jim (Suddenly in Santa Cruz)
Yesterday started as planned with us getting the mini-bus in the village plaza of beautiful Sorata, after a solid night of rain. A night of rain causes one to worry about the road being passable, but off we went in a 15 passenger Toyota (16 on board). There is about an hour and a half climb to get out of Sorata and the road is mostly dirt/gravel with an occasional stretch of pavement. Maybe it is the other way around, but early on, the driver had to get out and move rocks off the road that had been put there by a mud-slide, earthquake, or, as turned out to be the case and errant bulldozer operator working up-hill from the road. Once past that we climbed and climbed into the clouds, with me on the down-hill side (if you don`t know by now, I don`t like heights, and these are HEIGHTS!). But I kept the van on the road and we made it to La Paz and booked for the 5pm bus to Santa Cruz. Once we got settled in the bus and Joy managed to last through the obligatory Steven Segal "shoot-em-up" movie, we had a peaceful night.
When we awoke, the world had changed! No, Obama wasn`t on our bus! But, we had gone from the Altoplano, where the predominant colour, with many exceptions that Joy will point out to me later, is "adobe brown" with touches of pale green. It is also dry and relatively cool this time of year (the rainy and summer seasons), but we love it. Suddenly the next morning it was warm/hot and humid and the countryside was Green, green! From the book I have been reading, it seems clear that this area has been the economic engine for Bolivia for the past 20 years after the mines became less important. Here there is oil, gas, soya, sugar-cane (for bio-gas) , iron ore and there was coca until the U.S. eradication program may have limited it`s economic impact. Santa Cruz has become one of Bolivia`s largest cities over the past 20 years and shows it with fewer colonial buildings and many modern ones among the usual unfinished building put up in a hurry by newcomers. After we got in we spent the rest of the day relaxing and hope to find transport to Samaipata, about 150km east of here, to avoid the worst/best of Carnivale.
Tomorrow may be another of those cozy mini-bus rides, without which any visit to South America is incomplete. I might add the over-night bus rides to that list too.
Jim (Suddenly in Santa Cruz)
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Peace and Quiet in Sorata
Hi Folks:
A short entry today as we haven`t been doing too much that is exciting. Sorata is a place of great beauty, but not very many attractions for the tourists. The few young tourists in town are hikers or street buskers selling their own home made articles. One young Chilean guy plays a great pipe, which is actually a piece of plastic water pipe with holes of different sizes carved in it and a sort of mouth-piece cut in the end. Sounds really good and I can hear him as I am sitting at the computer.
I am reading a book entitled "Bolivia - Between a Rock and a Hard Place" written by an "ex-pat" who runs a restaurant here in Sorata. Unfortunately it is closed at the present. The book is giving me a great in-sight into how Bolivia developed, it`s economics and politics. Between this book and the museo in Sucre and our travels to much of the rest of the Altoplano, I feel that I am coming away with a much better understanding of Bolivia than I had as a result of last years visit. The opportunity given to us by Ivor and Ivonne to visit and talk to some of Bolivia`s great artists also helped.
As we chill out by the plaza, the sounds of daily life here fill the air. The roads in Sorata are very narrow so that there are basically only two ways in and out of town. As a result all the minibuses of the 2 companies that service Sorata are parked over-night by the plaza, along with all the trucks of any size. So all day there is the call of " Lapa...Lapa.....Lapa.....La Paz" as La Paz is the only destination out of Sorata. There seem to be hundreds of youngsters hurrying off to school in unforms of wine and grey, making kids noises. The big garbage truck is doing it`s rounds with a guy on the back with a handerchief over his mouth and nose, banging two pieces of metal together and making quite a noise. Up the road, on a corner away from the plaza, I can see "La Pintura" (also known as Joy) with the usual crowd of people, adults and kids, watching intently. There is a big Volvo truck that seems to be continuously going around collecting and delivering "bombas" gas containers, and cases of cervasa (empty and full). I am amazed that such a vehicle can get around in the tiny streets, but we haven`t seem an accident yet. Women in traditional dress are scurrying everywhere and seem to be carrying the business of the town on their backs. They have shops set up selling very basic groceries, or in the "mercado" they have wonderful displays of fresh fruits and vegetables. Dogs wander everywhere, but the dogs of Sorata appear better groomed and happier than those that we ahve seen elsewhere.
Yesterday we went for a walk down the valley to the river and back up. The hills here are steep and the road we walked back on looked like it was just one step from a wash-out. This is the road we hope to use today to go and see the "Gruto de San Pedro". Hope that it holds up!
Jim
A short entry today as we haven`t been doing too much that is exciting. Sorata is a place of great beauty, but not very many attractions for the tourists. The few young tourists in town are hikers or street buskers selling their own home made articles. One young Chilean guy plays a great pipe, which is actually a piece of plastic water pipe with holes of different sizes carved in it and a sort of mouth-piece cut in the end. Sounds really good and I can hear him as I am sitting at the computer.
I am reading a book entitled "Bolivia - Between a Rock and a Hard Place" written by an "ex-pat" who runs a restaurant here in Sorata. Unfortunately it is closed at the present. The book is giving me a great in-sight into how Bolivia developed, it`s economics and politics. Between this book and the museo in Sucre and our travels to much of the rest of the Altoplano, I feel that I am coming away with a much better understanding of Bolivia than I had as a result of last years visit. The opportunity given to us by Ivor and Ivonne to visit and talk to some of Bolivia`s great artists also helped.
As we chill out by the plaza, the sounds of daily life here fill the air. The roads in Sorata are very narrow so that there are basically only two ways in and out of town. As a result all the minibuses of the 2 companies that service Sorata are parked over-night by the plaza, along with all the trucks of any size. So all day there is the call of " Lapa...Lapa.....Lapa.....La Paz" as La Paz is the only destination out of Sorata. There seem to be hundreds of youngsters hurrying off to school in unforms of wine and grey, making kids noises. The big garbage truck is doing it`s rounds with a guy on the back with a handerchief over his mouth and nose, banging two pieces of metal together and making quite a noise. Up the road, on a corner away from the plaza, I can see "La Pintura" (also known as Joy) with the usual crowd of people, adults and kids, watching intently. There is a big Volvo truck that seems to be continuously going around collecting and delivering "bombas" gas containers, and cases of cervasa (empty and full). I am amazed that such a vehicle can get around in the tiny streets, but we haven`t seem an accident yet. Women in traditional dress are scurrying everywhere and seem to be carrying the business of the town on their backs. They have shops set up selling very basic groceries, or in the "mercado" they have wonderful displays of fresh fruits and vegetables. Dogs wander everywhere, but the dogs of Sorata appear better groomed and happier than those that we ahve seen elsewhere.
Yesterday we went for a walk down the valley to the river and back up. The hills here are steep and the road we walked back on looked like it was just one step from a wash-out. This is the road we hope to use today to go and see the "Gruto de San Pedro". Hope that it holds up!
Jim
Monday, February 16, 2009
Sorata
Hi Folks:
Based partially on the advice we received on Friday night from Ivor, Ivonne, Mario and Victor, we are here in Sorata.
The day started well as we got up and checked out and got a taxi without a problem. We arrived at the minibus stop, high on the hill by the La Paz Cemetary, just in time to be placed in the bus that was about to leave. Unfortunately to accomodate the ¨gringos¨they forced others to change seats, but then with our bags on the roof, we were off. We took one of the 2 lane roads up to El Alto (see one of my earlier posts) and our driver developed a good case of road-rage with the driver of a much bigger bus. Back and forth we went blocking the angry bus driver from passing. Climbing out of La Paz is spectacular with pretty steep drops off the side and the city many, many metres below. He finally pulled off to check the load on the roof and things calmed down. At the peak of the 3 hour trip we had 20 people in a Toyota mini-van. Anyone coming to Peru or Bolivia, really must try a ride in one of these. The ride was quite smooth and level while we drove the Alto Plano to Lake Titicaca and then turned into the mountains. The last 25kms were twisty and windy as we climbed through mountain passes and down into the steepest valleys to drop people at tiny villages clinging to the side of the mountains. Eventually into Sorata, our objective.
We were looking for a place of peace and quiet, where Joy could do some painting. This seems to be it as she has already done a 1/4 sheet painting. It is a small town of about 3,000 souls, lying in a deep mountain valley surrounded by lush green mountainsides. The smell of eucalyptus as we descended into the valley was very strong and from our window there are fuscia blooming as well as Pontsettias in there natural state. At least 2 kinds of hummingbirds were zipping around the flowers as I read my new book on Bolivian development written by a resident of Sorata.
I think that things will be a little quiet for a few days, but first to eat!
Jim
Based partially on the advice we received on Friday night from Ivor, Ivonne, Mario and Victor, we are here in Sorata.
The day started well as we got up and checked out and got a taxi without a problem. We arrived at the minibus stop, high on the hill by the La Paz Cemetary, just in time to be placed in the bus that was about to leave. Unfortunately to accomodate the ¨gringos¨they forced others to change seats, but then with our bags on the roof, we were off. We took one of the 2 lane roads up to El Alto (see one of my earlier posts) and our driver developed a good case of road-rage with the driver of a much bigger bus. Back and forth we went blocking the angry bus driver from passing. Climbing out of La Paz is spectacular with pretty steep drops off the side and the city many, many metres below. He finally pulled off to check the load on the roof and things calmed down. At the peak of the 3 hour trip we had 20 people in a Toyota mini-van. Anyone coming to Peru or Bolivia, really must try a ride in one of these. The ride was quite smooth and level while we drove the Alto Plano to Lake Titicaca and then turned into the mountains. The last 25kms were twisty and windy as we climbed through mountain passes and down into the steepest valleys to drop people at tiny villages clinging to the side of the mountains. Eventually into Sorata, our objective.
We were looking for a place of peace and quiet, where Joy could do some painting. This seems to be it as she has already done a 1/4 sheet painting. It is a small town of about 3,000 souls, lying in a deep mountain valley surrounded by lush green mountainsides. The smell of eucalyptus as we descended into the valley was very strong and from our window there are fuscia blooming as well as Pontsettias in there natural state. At least 2 kinds of hummingbirds were zipping around the flowers as I read my new book on Bolivian development written by a resident of Sorata.
I think that things will be a little quiet for a few days, but first to eat!
Jim
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Last Day in La Paz......... Maybe
Hi Folks:
First let me correct my spelling.......... again! I am told by Joy that Ivor`s partners name is Ivonne not Yvonne. I am so sorry.
Yesterday we were off to a great display of watercolours on the characters of the up-coming Carnivale. Quite exceptional, as was the display of the masks of these various entities. This was all at the National Museum of ethnography and folklore. After, we went to find the place where we will catch the bus to Sorata tomorrow. It didn`t seem far on the map and is up the hill past the Witches Market by the cemetary. It seems much harder hiking up the hills here with no pack, than the hills of Virginia with 40 lbs on your back. Once again I swear to get back into shape. We were puffing by the time we got up there and it looks like it will be a crowded minibus for 3 hours tomorrow. On the way down we shopped! You should see Joy bargain, which the women seem to enjoy! She should be made Minister of the Budget when we get home!
Today we visited Tiahuanico, an early (about 1000 years before Macchu Picchu) temple complex near the shore of Lake Titicaca. I was embarassed the other day when I had to confess to Ivor that I hadn`t been there. The site is not the spectacular mountain/river valley of MP, but the middle of a gentle valley on the Alto Plano at about 4,000m in altitude. The excavation is really just in it`s early stages, but the work seems to be proceeding quickly. The temples are partially constructed or dug out and re-constructed and the monolyths are really quite huge and special. The tour was worth it and, in addition, we were there on a Sunday and knew that the market was in the town square that day. Our tour guide didn`t want us to go into the town, but rather to go to the scheduled lunch (I am pretty certain that there is a commission involved), but Joy insisted and we were given 30 minutes. After the sprint to town we saw the church built in the 1500s, partially of stone from the temples. The square was filled with Cholitas in trasitional dress and Joy went wild. We then sprinted back to find out that the group had barely given their orders.
We came back to town to a big meal and ice cream (Pasas Ron is exceptional here......... oh yea Rum and Raisin) and now to pack. Tomorrow, if all goes well, we will be in Sorata, chilling for a week until we figure out how we will get to Sao Paulo, Brazil for the flight home. Joy has some paint boxes for the kids of Sorata and she hopes to do some serious painting.
Jim
First let me correct my spelling.......... again! I am told by Joy that Ivor`s partners name is Ivonne not Yvonne. I am so sorry.
Yesterday we were off to a great display of watercolours on the characters of the up-coming Carnivale. Quite exceptional, as was the display of the masks of these various entities. This was all at the National Museum of ethnography and folklore. After, we went to find the place where we will catch the bus to Sorata tomorrow. It didn`t seem far on the map and is up the hill past the Witches Market by the cemetary. It seems much harder hiking up the hills here with no pack, than the hills of Virginia with 40 lbs on your back. Once again I swear to get back into shape. We were puffing by the time we got up there and it looks like it will be a crowded minibus for 3 hours tomorrow. On the way down we shopped! You should see Joy bargain, which the women seem to enjoy! She should be made Minister of the Budget when we get home!
Today we visited Tiahuanico, an early (about 1000 years before Macchu Picchu) temple complex near the shore of Lake Titicaca. I was embarassed the other day when I had to confess to Ivor that I hadn`t been there. The site is not the spectacular mountain/river valley of MP, but the middle of a gentle valley on the Alto Plano at about 4,000m in altitude. The excavation is really just in it`s early stages, but the work seems to be proceeding quickly. The temples are partially constructed or dug out and re-constructed and the monolyths are really quite huge and special. The tour was worth it and, in addition, we were there on a Sunday and knew that the market was in the town square that day. Our tour guide didn`t want us to go into the town, but rather to go to the scheduled lunch (I am pretty certain that there is a commission involved), but Joy insisted and we were given 30 minutes. After the sprint to town we saw the church built in the 1500s, partially of stone from the temples. The square was filled with Cholitas in trasitional dress and Joy went wild. We then sprinted back to find out that the group had barely given their orders.
We came back to town to a big meal and ice cream (Pasas Ron is exceptional here......... oh yea Rum and Raisin) and now to pack. Tomorrow, if all goes well, we will be in Sorata, chilling for a week until we figure out how we will get to Sao Paulo, Brazil for the flight home. Joy has some paint boxes for the kids of Sorata and she hopes to do some serious painting.
Jim
Saturday, February 14, 2009
A Day of Art
Happy Valentines Day everyone!
Yesterday started with a visit with Ivor and Yvonne, to the Academia Nacional de Belles Artes with introductions to the Executive Director, Max and many of the faculty. We sat around a table while greetings were exchanged and Joy showed them the sketches that she had done on this trip. I was so proud of Joy when she explained to them the value to her, as a painter in Nova Scotia, of the opportunity to view and paint another culture. She explained how it helped her see the culture and environment back home through refreshed eyes. She is quite the budding ambassador for Nova Scotia. The faculty of the Academia is obviously dedicated to their students but lack the facilities and equipment to support a student enrolment of 300. We all agreed that an association with a school like NSCAD would have a great impact and be beneficial to both institutions. We viewed a display, in the school´s gallery, of student work made completely from recycled material. Ivor sponsors an annual competition among the students.
After Joy and I went to the Museo de Arte Contemporaria and later (after cervasa and ice cream and siesta) we went around the corner to the Nacional Museo de Arte. We had a wonderful guide and the access to the collection has improved greatly since last year. It is housed in a beautiful "colonial" house with and alabaster fountain and stairs in the main courtyard. There is also a new section on contemporary art and we immediately recognized the Mamani mamani because of our meeting with the artist the night before.
In the evening we met Ivor, Yvonne and 2 of the greats of the Bolivian art scene; watercolourist, Mario Conde Cruz and sculptor, Victor Hugo Echeverria, at Villaserena. The restaurant includes a gallery, of course and serves the finest in Bolivian cuisine. We were ably assisted in our selections by Ivor and Yvonne and had the finest wine and absolutely delectable food. That plus the delightful company of Mario and Victor, both charming and interesting gentlemen. Despite the language issues it was marvellous when Joy and Mario started to compare techniques and I couldn´t understand either side of the conversation. Then we managed to get Mario and Victor arguing, good-naturally, over whether painting was more difficult than sculpture.
I was able to ask both of them what was the biggest issue facing the arts in Bolivia. They agreed that the lack of government funding for the arts was the biggest area of complaint, as the available funds are all spent on the promotion of the various festivals and the colourful dances which are the centre-pieces of these events. It is interesting to compare our 2 societies in this regard, as there are galleries all over La Paz and most of the other cities that we have visited, while in Canada where there is some support for the arts from government, we have only one gallery in Halifax plus the one at NSCAD. The evening was thoroughly enjoyable and we owe a huge debt to Ivor and Yvonne for providing us with 2 exciting days which have been the high-light of our trip so far.
Our plans from here are still being formulated. We are unable to get to Aucapata as originally planned, so we have to find an alternative peaceful place for Joy to do some painting. I prepared a list of possible options and asked the dinner table last night for their suggestions. They narrowed the list to 2 places; Samaipata and Sorata. Both have a reputation for being quiet and beautiful, so we may try both.
Off to another gallery for a watercolour show and then the Witches Market for trinkets to bring home.
Jim
Yesterday started with a visit with Ivor and Yvonne, to the Academia Nacional de Belles Artes with introductions to the Executive Director, Max and many of the faculty. We sat around a table while greetings were exchanged and Joy showed them the sketches that she had done on this trip. I was so proud of Joy when she explained to them the value to her, as a painter in Nova Scotia, of the opportunity to view and paint another culture. She explained how it helped her see the culture and environment back home through refreshed eyes. She is quite the budding ambassador for Nova Scotia. The faculty of the Academia is obviously dedicated to their students but lack the facilities and equipment to support a student enrolment of 300. We all agreed that an association with a school like NSCAD would have a great impact and be beneficial to both institutions. We viewed a display, in the school´s gallery, of student work made completely from recycled material. Ivor sponsors an annual competition among the students.
After Joy and I went to the Museo de Arte Contemporaria and later (after cervasa and ice cream and siesta) we went around the corner to the Nacional Museo de Arte. We had a wonderful guide and the access to the collection has improved greatly since last year. It is housed in a beautiful "colonial" house with and alabaster fountain and stairs in the main courtyard. There is also a new section on contemporary art and we immediately recognized the Mamani mamani because of our meeting with the artist the night before.
In the evening we met Ivor, Yvonne and 2 of the greats of the Bolivian art scene; watercolourist, Mario Conde Cruz and sculptor, Victor Hugo Echeverria, at Villaserena. The restaurant includes a gallery, of course and serves the finest in Bolivian cuisine. We were ably assisted in our selections by Ivor and Yvonne and had the finest wine and absolutely delectable food. That plus the delightful company of Mario and Victor, both charming and interesting gentlemen. Despite the language issues it was marvellous when Joy and Mario started to compare techniques and I couldn´t understand either side of the conversation. Then we managed to get Mario and Victor arguing, good-naturally, over whether painting was more difficult than sculpture.
I was able to ask both of them what was the biggest issue facing the arts in Bolivia. They agreed that the lack of government funding for the arts was the biggest area of complaint, as the available funds are all spent on the promotion of the various festivals and the colourful dances which are the centre-pieces of these events. It is interesting to compare our 2 societies in this regard, as there are galleries all over La Paz and most of the other cities that we have visited, while in Canada where there is some support for the arts from government, we have only one gallery in Halifax plus the one at NSCAD. The evening was thoroughly enjoyable and we owe a huge debt to Ivor and Yvonne for providing us with 2 exciting days which have been the high-light of our trip so far.
Our plans from here are still being formulated. We are unable to get to Aucapata as originally planned, so we have to find an alternative peaceful place for Joy to do some painting. I prepared a list of possible options and asked the dinner table last night for their suggestions. They narrowed the list to 2 places; Samaipata and Sorata. Both have a reputation for being quiet and beautiful, so we may try both.
Off to another gallery for a watercolour show and then the Witches Market for trinkets to bring home.
Jim
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