Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Fun in Samaipata

Hola All:
Before I forget about Santa Cruz, I want a tell you why it didn`t make a good first impression. The taxi driver couldn`t find the hostal that we wanted, and wouldn`t take directions from me even though I knew where we needed to go once I had seen the main plaza. he kept asking for directions from everyone else and got a real mixture of directions, eventually winding up at the Hotel Bolivia rather than the Residentiale Bolivar. Then once he got the right directions he made the wrong turn ending up with us facing another lap of the block in virtual gridlock. At that point, we got out and the trek began. It wasn`t far to the hostal that we were looking for and Joy loved the ambiance, with the palms, bananas and Toucans in the courtyard. Unfortunately, while I travel pretty simply, I do ask for a private bathroom and those rooms were all taken for Carnivale. So then we started hiking to find the perfect combination of both with Joy hoping that we had to go back. Finally, exhausted, we found the compromise place with a view of the roof-tops and a private bathroom. Then, after an hour and a half hike to find one of Joy`s selection of perfect places to eat (all either closed or abandoned) we had dinner. On the way back we were stopped by 2 of Santa Cruz`s finest fake police officers, who barely had the opportunity to get their fake ID out of their pockets before I told them (in my finest English) to "get lost" or words to that effect, and proceeded to call "Policia, policia!" at the top of my lungs. It was some sort of gut reaction based on the fact that there had been a similar stunt pulled on us in La Paz last year. You never saw a white SUV go down the road and around the corner faster than those guys. My reaction last year had been to grab Joy and run, but this new one just came out of nowhere, but it worked. It was funny that they didn`t hang around, because one of the things that we had noticed about Santa Cruz was the absolute absence of police (real ones). This was especially true after seeing the police presence in La Paz! Unfortunately, after this episode, I had some trouble sleeping. It is an old tired scam, which should have been stamped out by now.
The next day we were off early to find the taxis/buses to Samaipata. Eventually, having located the taxi driver from H---, we were off for 150kms of terror. I vaguely remember the guy shaking the car vigorously to get more gas in and seeing (most of the time my eyes were closed) a car with 6 mattresses stacked on top! The driver spent most of the 150kms on the left side of the road passing every vehicle in sight and then stopping, with some excuse, while they passed us again, so that he could start the routine again. We sis arrive safely in Samaipata to get the last room in a town packed with partiers. For the past three days (seem to be still going today) we had the cacophony of bands competing for attention with a dance party along with them, usually well lubricated with something alcohol. Of course, there are the squirt guns, water balloons and shaving cream. Everyone gets into the act! It is a great party time for those who like that sort of thing. Girls make a circuit of the main plaza, seemingly to prove that they are the most popular because they got the wettest. I don`t understand that, so it must be a female thing.
Yesterday, Joy and I went up to "El Fuerte" the nearby pre-Hispanic ruins. Very different than others as the very large rock surface at the highest point has been carved into various symbols and was used as a religious site. The work involved to do the carving without metal tools, is quite amazing to contemplate. We walked the 10-12kms back to town in the mid-day sun (isn`t there a song that says "only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun!"). The first stop for a cold cervasa was appreciated! I did say that it was hot, right?
Today is a painting day for Joy, so I will wander and chill. We have to start planning our return to Brazil.
Jim

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