Indian Driving Rules and Other Stuff

February 25,2014

I have a few additions to the Indian Driving Rules that I posted a few days ago. 

Number 8: Lights: Always drive with your hi beams on if you you feel the need for lights at all. This way when you are cruising along at high speed you may see the truck stopped or just going slowly in the main lane (lane 1 to 5). Don't worry about whether the other drivers can see. That is their worry.

Number 9: cows: You must avoid the cows wandering the roads at all cost as the are holy or something. If you terrify a few pedestrians while doing so, see the rule on pedestrians. Also you must avoid people lying in the street. I am not sure why this is a rule, but we saw it this morning?

Yesterday we found the funeral pyres. Puri, where we are now is one of the places in India where people are brought for their final trip. Down the shore crowds of Hindus gather to monitor the pyres of their relatives as their mortal remains are burned. We did not have the requisite intestinal fortitude to walk among the numerous fires to watch, but apparently it is allowed.

Puri is also known for sand sculptures, and we watched one being built all day yesterday. Most of work seemed to be done by two young women clad in matching blue sarees. In the end it was a stack of various size books with titles that were unreadable to us. It turned out that they represented the dictionaries of the various officially approved languages of Indian. The news cameras were there at the "unveiling" and Portapiques Joy Laking was interviewed and asked for her impression.

Jim

Compartment "C", Coromandell Express

Feb 22, 2014

This morning we arrived at the Chennai Central station at 7:30am to start the search for information on the train and our reservations. As has happened every time, I was confirmed and Joy was number 1 on the Waitlist before the morning of the train when she is suddenly confirmed and allowed to share a compartment with me. Once again I did not have to leave her behind. We found the train and the usual "HA1" car for "first class air conditioned". Shortly the man with the computer print outs of the passengers and a glue pot comes along, splashes some of the glue on the side of the car and puts up the list of occupants. And there we were together in compartment "C". Each "HA1" car has two, 2 person compartments and one 4 person compartment. They try to assign couples to the 2 person compartments. Each compartment has an upper and lower berth.

So here we sit in air conditioned comfort watching the coast of the Bay of Bengal, with it's many rice paddies, fly by as we speed up the Coromandel Coast to Bhubaneswar and the Puri Beach Resort.

Jim

Pondicherry Stores

Feb 21, 2014

I'm sure that Joy will mention this, but it was so impressive that I have to comment as well. Yesterday, Joy and I got the "rickshaw" driver to drop us off on the other side of the road from the hotel as we were too terrified to walk across (see Indian Driving Rules). We stopped in at 2 stores selling sarees and other items of Indian clothing. We were met at the door and treated royally but the many staff. She seemed to have 3 or 4 men (mostly) showing her fabrics of all colours. Of course, the "piece de resistence" was a beautiful suit for me (almost bought it) with a knee length jacket. I looked almost regal. The whole experience was like something you might see in a film of the days of the English "Raj"!

We next went to a small grocery store and were greeted by the manager at the door and given a grocery basket. I swear that there was a clerk in every aisle smiling and asking if we needed help. They even offered to carry the basket for Joy. I'm sorry, but there are times when it is impossible to find someone to ask about anything in our grocery stores. 

Jim

Indian Driving Rules

Feb 21, 2014

I have been trying for the month to somehow codify the rules which govern the roads in India. It has taken that long to sample both the town/city roads as well as the twisting ones in the Western Ghats (the mountains). Here are the rules as much as I can tell:

1. Drive on the left side of the road................. If convenient. If not use the other side particularly when approaching a blind corner in the mountains.

2. Pass all vehicles going slower than you. This is obligatory! Speed up to do this, if required.

3. On two lane roads, the middle lane is the passing lane, to be used by vehicles going in either direction, and by both if desired. 

4. On two lane roads in town, the two outside lanes (numbers 4 and 5) are for the convenience of drivers who wish to drive in the opposite direction of those driving in the two main lanes (1 and 2). This also helps to confuse pedestrians who may have the temerity to try to cross the road. The Indian driver is obligated to prevent the crossing of roads.

5. Use of horns: this is the most essential piece of equipment in an Indian vehicle, such that many "rickshaws" (3 wheeled motorized taxis) have at least two. The appropriate use of the horn can be a religious experience causing 2 buses passing in the two lane road coming toward you to disappear! At least, they do when Joy closes her eyes. I am convinced that there is a code involved in the proper signalling with the horn, but a lot of times it seems to be just for the shear ecstasy brought on by the sound. Having honked, an Indian driver achieves a state of invulnerability and can drive anywhere.

6. Pedestrians: although we observed no fatalities, I am sure that walking on or near a road is a recognized form of belated birth control and may even be government sanctioned. It is the sworn duty of every Indian driver to ensure that these poor, misguided fools are fearful for their lives every time they venture near pavement. After all, they should be in vehicles and joining in the fun!

7. We had quite a chuckle over the sign in Pondicherry cautioning people to wear helmets. Of the thousands of motorcycles and scooters streaming by like the continuous flow of a river, we would observe very occasional compliance (maybe .0001%).

I hate to possibly insult any of the wonderful people of India and I am certain that not all Indian drivers follow these rules, we just haven't met him yet. These are just from our observations of actual drivers on five relatively lengthy, and generally terrifying, drives.

Jim

Chennai (once Madras)

Feb 21, 2014,

After a nice drive up the coast (although Joy still does not enjoy Indian driving. Something about 2 buses hurtling at you in a 2 lane road to be avoided at the last minute seems to upset her?) we are in Chennai for the night. The hotel we picked from "Cleartrips", a useful booking mechanism particularly for Indian trains, is well located although they seemed unhappy that we had booked already. They also don't provide internet and charge for wifi that doesn't work well at all. Madras is also impressing us with it's rat population as we have already seen a few.

We are booked on a train tomorrow morning and as seems the case every time, I am confirmed and Joy is number one on the wait list. Somehow this gets resolved at the last minute and I haven't had to leave her anywhere ..............yet! We arrive at Puri in the morning of the 23rd and stay on the beach for four days before flying to Delhi to finish our travels in Rajastan and the hill country. We are running short of time as we have been in India for a month today and are planning to be back in Mumbai in another month.

Jim

Pondicherry

Feb 20, 2014

After a wild ride from Munnar, down the near vertical drop from the Western Ghats to the plains at Madurai, followed by an overnight train ride, and another wild ride into Pondicherry, we arrived at the JP Residency. Unfortunately, because of the "crap shoot" the selection of accomodation is, we are on the side of one of the busiest roads in India with continuous horns sounding all day and night. It is also worth your life to try to cross the road! It is also far away from the best part of town. Then we found out that the wifi doesn't work. After a bad first day, things looked up as we found a good place for breakfast, with wifi, and took a rickshaw tour.

Pondicherry is the left over of the French presence in India and the area by the beach has a distinct French colonial feel, including the French Consulate. The whole town seems to be associated with and ashram devoted to 2 dead people, one an Indian who seemed to retire from life after a short jail sentence for sedition back in the early 1900s. Then his wife (?) a French woman fabricated a myth that made him and her quasi-holy. We visited what appear to be a community started by her called Auroville which says that it follows many of the principles of the 1960s intentional communities, which Joy and I also believe in. Unfortunately, there is no sign of the actual community, but merely generalized statements of it's existence and achievements, many of which seem to just be use of existing technology. There is also a massive gold dome which seems to have little purpose other than to glorify the founders. One of the principles is the denial of religion, but everything seems to indicate that that is what has been created.

Anyway, our stay in Pondicherry has been much more interesting that we expected from the beginning. Today we visited the Botanical Gardens and met a class of school kids. Now they all have Canada or NS pins thanks to our local MP and MLA. I also gave the teacher a selection of Canadian coins. They were great kids and a lot of fun.

Tomorrow we get a car to Chennai (formerly Madras) for an overnight and catch the train the next morning for Bhusanewar (actually we are staying on the coast at Puri, nearby).

Jim

Kumily

Feb 12, 2014
The 5 hour drive from Varkala to Kumily was hi lighted by some wild driving on twisty mountain roads (more on the later as I am developing a code of driving for India) and the sight of an elephant on the back of a truck. Those who are on Facebook will have already seen Joy's photo of the beast.
Last night after we arrived, Joy (broken ankle and all) and I took a one hour introductory class in yoga. It was excellent and gave us a good workout. Continuing would be good for us both.
Today we toured the Carra Marra tea company plantation and factory to see how it is grown and processed, in this case to produce the "chai" tea consumed by most Indians. We also toured a spice producer a viewed the many various spices produced in Southern India. Who knew that "all-spice" is actually a separate spice and not a combination of spices.
A busy day and to end it, Joy is off creating a culinary masterpiece this evening. Tomorrow, we are away by boat to see what wildlife we can find in the nearby national park. Because we are on the edge of the park, there are two types of monkies that roam the streets and backyards behind the hotel.
Jim

Last Night in Varkala

Feb 10, 2014:
Tomorrow morning we leave by car for Kumily and see if we can see some wild elephants and even a tiger. We will be somewhat sad to leave the relaxed life we have developed here, but there is a lot more of India to be seen.
Last night we shared a plate of the biggest prawns I have ever seen. Any Maritimer that knows the size of a "market" lobster will appreciate the size of the prawns (4) on this plate. Pop off the heads and shell and it is all meat! Tonight we went back for our last plate of the ginger/lemon/garlic baked prawns we loved so much the day before.
Joy now has a cane that we bought back in Fort Cochin and she appreciates having the use of it, particularly to get down the stairs to the beach. It is a thing of beauty, made of camel bone with various Indian designs painted on it. We have modified it twice since being here: adding a non-slip cover over the brass tip and reinforcing it when it became wobbly where it is supposed to come apart. Her ankle is slowly improving although it does hamper her getting around.
Tomorrow we go away from the Arabian Sea and head East into the Western Gnats, the land of tea and grape plantations and wildlife preserves.
Jim

Varkala

Feb 9, 2014
Our time here has become a very relaxing routine. Each day the weather is the same with a low around 25C and highs in the 30s.
The seafood here is fantastic as every evening around 6 - 7 the fresh fish catch is laid out on ice in front of each restaurant. The fish include Blue Marlin, Barracuda, and about 4 other types in addition to many sizes of Prawns and Squid. I am not a great fish eater, but I had Barracuda a few nights ago and it is the second best fish I have tasted (next to Striped Bass). Last night it was Prawns, baked with lemon, ginger and garlic. Fabulous!
Each day we go down to the beach to frolic in the breakers. There is a continuous swell coming in from the West. The breakers can get a little scary if you are not paying attention. The big ones can pick you up and send you tumbling towards shore. But the water is warm and very salty.
Tremendous variety of nationalities here including many Europeans, Russians, Kiwis and Aussies. The locals say tourism is a way down (sounds like home) but, I guess, that makes it better for us. Some other old folk around but most numerous are the younger generation.
Time for the beach,
Jim

Kollum - Varkala

Feb 7, 2014
After we bailed on Amma's ashram/temple we took a "rickshaw" (motorized) to Kollum and booked in to the first air conditioned hotel we could find. Actually we went to the one we picked out of the guidebook and found that it had been closed by a strike for a while. Once we settled, the need for a "Kingfisher" (local beer) break came upon us and we were directed to another hotel, closer to the beach. Joy will give a better description of the bar in the hotel, but all I can say is that it was WHITE! All white!
The next day we were taken by rickshaw driven by Francis who we had met the night before, to his house where we met Jacquelin, his wife and Olive, his beautiful daughter. They served us a wonderful snack and then we were off to Varkala. Francis showed us the sights along the way and was a wonderful guide. We got to inspect one of the traditional fishing boats which have no nails, but are sewn together using twine and rope. We also found a snake charmer by the side of the road while searching for the "Bamboo Village". As you will know if you follow Joy's blog, this was important to her as her Father had a picture of a snake charmer taken during his time in India during WWII.
Varkala has a beautiful beach with 2 cliffs (cleverly called North and South). On the North cliff where we are, the tourist places, restaurants, and souvenir sellers are "cheek by jowl" along a path at the edge of the cliff.
We are here for 6 nights and are getting a chance to settle in to a routine. Up late, breakfast, e-mail check,a little read, down to the beach for a swim, beer (in a teapot) to cool off ( it is really hot here), nap, dinner, blogging/reading, to sleep. It is nice to finally relax.
Jim

More on Amma's Temple

Feb 5, 2014
Don't know what to make of our visit to the temple/ashram. Was hoping for an opportunity to do some meditation and maybe learn some yoga. When we arrived we were told that the tour of the facility, scheduled for 5 pm had already taken place at 4 pm. We hiked up the 12 floors (actually we took the elevators, but that was the last time for me). Our accommodations were sparse, but that was what we expected.
We went down to the beach for the evening meditation, but were required to stand and make a symbolic salute to Amma when she arrived. What followed was about an hour of silence, followed by the same length of time spent listening to Amma answer a set question on why it was so difficult to get a straight answer from her.
After that was about 1 1/2 hours of singing various hymes from different cultures, all venerating Amma in some manner, interspersed with photos of Amma appearing on screens around the hall. It all finished with a crescendo chant urging victory for Amma. Joy and I retreated to our room. The next day after Joy had had a chance to go to the beach and paint, we left by rickshaw for Kollum.
Jim

Amma's Ashram/temple Feb 3/4

The ferry ride down from Alleppy was interesting and not at all dull like the guide book said. Ran into a dredge that took some moving and locks. Despite all the looks in upper Canada, I think that this was my first time.
We got of at the very elaborate bridge leading to this ashram, which we had booked for two nights. After filling out the very lengthy and intrusive registration form and giving up our passports we were issued bedding and headed toward the 12 th floor of a 14 floor orange building in the jungle, I ran across a young woman in great distress talking on her cel phone and begging whoever to " get her out of there". No one else seemed interested, and she disappeared out of the gates before I could catch up and try to help. We continued with our registration, and learning the many rules, that seemed to cover everything.
To be continued.
Jim

Kerala

India has posed a number of questions for me. I am certain that there is a government department regulating the colour of women's clothing. With all the spectacular coloured saris (sp) and scarves, why do you never, never see two the same? I have been watching closely and yet none wear the same!
Another issue I have is with beer. This part of the country is warm ( make that d----- hot) and getting hotter, and the Indians make a decent beer called "Kingfisher", and yet at some times it cannot be found. We first ran into this in Fort Cochin, when our favourite watering hole, ran out of Kingfisher one day and we had to choose from three European beers. We chose the Danish one and the next day couldn't get it or Kingfisher, so settled for the Dutch beer. The following day the restaurant was closed. I know that Joy and I didn't cause that, but there were a lot of thirsty, hot, tourists wandering around that day. None of the locals had a reason for no beer that day?
Joy and I both have been watching the men in "luongos" (I am sure that that is spelled wrong but that is how it sounds). This is a long skirt worn by Keralian men and modified on the move by various flips and tugs to change the length and functionality. Very interesting to watch.
Jim